Start · Module 1Worked examples · 8 min

Real-life examples

Lesson 9 of 12

The short version

Five real situations, from a phone on a hike to a view camera on a tripod, worked through the way I would talk you through them: what I see, what I decide, what I do and why.

Scenario 1: Phone or camera for a hiking trip

A wide green glen with a stream and a track winding between steep grassy hills under broken cloud
What to notice: Big, bright, wide scenes like this suit a phone perfectly. Save the bigger camera for the distant, the dim and the moving.

What I see. A week of walking in the Scottish Highlands, or the Blue Mountains, or Yosemite: big landscapes in good light, misty mornings, dim pub or lodge interiors and distant deer. The walker has a phone and a small mirrorless camera with a 1.5× APS-C sensor and an 18–55mm zoom.

What I decide. Take both and give each a job. The phone does the wide, quick, everyday shots. The camera handles anything distant, dim or moving.

What I do. Check what the zoom gives: on this camera it frames like roughly 27mm to 83mm on full frame, so the long end brings a distant deer much closer than a phone’s digital zoom. Pack two charged batteries.

Why. The bigger sensor catches more light, so dim and distant frames hold together. The phone saves weight for everything else.

Scenario 2: Borrowing a portrait lens

What I see. A student with a Canon APS-C camera is offered an 85mm lens, “the classic portrait lens”.

What I decide. 85mm is the classic on full frame. On this camera (about 1.6×) it frames like about 136mm: a long view that needs a lot of room.

What I do. In a small living room, use the 50mm lens he already owns instead; on his camera it frames like about 80mm, close to the classic look.

Why. A smaller sensor changes the framing, not the lens. Choose the lens for the room.

MFTFull frameAPS-C (inner white box)Image circle of a full-frame 50mm lensEdge of the image circleFull frame (1×) frames like 50mmAPS-C (1.5×) frames like 75mmMicro Four Thirds (2×) like 100mmMedium and large format needlenses with bigger image circles.
Figure 1. A full-frame 50mm lens throws a circle of image big enough for full frame and anything smaller. Smaller sensors record a smaller middle slice. Medium- and large-format cameras need lenses that throw bigger circles.

Scenario 3: The dark church and the bright screen

A grand church interior in Rome with painted ceilings, gilded side chapels and rows of wooden pews leading to the altar
What to notice: Interiors like this are much darker than they look to your eyes. Check the histogram, not just the screen.

What I see. A visitor with a second-hand DSLR in a dim church in Rome. Through the optical viewfinder the nave looks fine; on the screen the photos look fine. At home, every frame is dark.

What I decide. The optical viewfinder shows the scene, not the exposure, and the last owner left the screen on maximum brightness, which flatters dark pictures.

What I do. Set screen brightness to standard, turn on the histogram in playback (Module 12), use live view in very dim places, and fix the date and time zone too.

Why. With an optical viewfinder you check exposure after the shot. Once you know that, it is easy.

Scenario 4: Medium format for a landscape commission

What I see. A photographer hires a medium-format digital camera with a 44 × 33 mm sensor for a landscape print job. Her usual camera is full frame.

What I decide. The bigger sensor records a wider slice with the same focal length, about 0.79× crop. Her favourite 35mm full-frame view needs roughly a 45mm lens on this camera.

What I do. Choose lenses made for the medium-format mount (they throw a bigger image circle), work from a tripod, and allow extra card space and battery, because the files are large.

Why. Bigger format, same habits: careful framing, steady support, generous storage.

Scenario 5: A view camera on a city street

A medium-format camera body on a tripod seen from above, with a digital back whose screen shows a histogram
What to notice: Slow, deliberate, on a tripod: medium format rewards the same careful habits as the rest of this module.
A person adjusting a large bellows camera on a tripod by a window
What to notice: A view camera on a tripod. Every adjustment is by hand, which is half the fun.

What I see. An architecture student borrows a 4 × 5 inch view camera to photograph a tall building without the walls appearing to lean.

What I decide. A view camera can raise its front panel, called a shift or rise movement, which takes in the top of the building while the camera back stays upright, keeping the verticals straight.

What I do. Level the camera on a tripod, raise the front standard until the roofline fits, focus on the ground glass under a dark cloth, then load one sheet of film (or fit a digital back) and make a single careful exposure.

Why. Large format is slow on purpose. Each sheet costs money, so you think first and shoot once.

Troubleshooting

ProblemLikely causeFix
Viewfinder writing looks blurry, photos are sharpDioptre set for someone else’s eyesAdjust the dioptre control until the writing is crisp
Screen goes black when you lift the cameraThe eye sensor has switched to the viewfinderNormal; change the display setting if you prefer
Shutter button does nothingNo focus found, no card, or lens not lockedHalf-press on a contrasty edge, check the card, refit the lens until it clicks
Battery flat by lunchtimeScreen and viewfinder on all day, plus wireless featuresCarry a spare and turn off wireless features you are not using
Photo times are hours outWrong time zoneSet date, time and zone on arrival
Lens error messageDirty contacts or lens not seatedSwitch off, wipe the contacts with a clean dry cloth, refit

Go deeper

The maths behind the scenarios. Equivalent focal length = focal length × crop factor: 18 × 1.5 = 27mm and 55 × 1.5 = 82.5mm; 85 × 1.6 = 136mm; 50 × 1.6 = 80mm. Going the other way, 35 ÷ 0.79 ≈ 44mm, so a 45mm medium-format lens gives about the 35mm full-frame view. A view camera’s rise works because its lenses throw an image circle much larger than the film, leaving room to slide the film’s window around inside it.

Finn tip: Before any trip, write your crop factor and your lenses’ equivalents on tape inside your camera bag. It is a tiny job that pays you back every time the light is rushing.

Key takeaways

  • Match the camera to the job: phones for wide and quick, bigger sensors for distant, dim or moving subjects.
  • Use the crop factor to compare lenses before you borrow or buy.
  • Bigger formats reward slow, careful work on a tripod; view cameras can correct leaning buildings.